Fish lice are Argulus, a crustacean. These are rarely seen if tropical fish, but they can occur, especially in pond raised fish. Since true lice are insects the term “fish lice” is a misnomer.
There are several varieties of fish louse, including a very transparent one which is hard to see on the fish. Fish lice are sometimes seen on goldfish which have been raised in a pond. But fish lice as a whole are rare in an aquarium and will generally simply die out on their own.
Some hobbyists just remove the lice with the tweezers.
An as yet Undescribed Fish Louse
Another as yet described crustacean copepod is infecting just the fins of some fish. It originally was found on guppies from southeast Asia in 2002 (“The New Illustrated Guide to Fish Diseases”. Bassleer, 2008, p. 187). It has now been confirmed on goldfish, tetras and gouramis and appears to have an affinity for the fins of angelfish. It looks like a small one-millimeter long grain of rice or white barley. These small crustaceans appear to be relatively benign and are just confusing when they are encountered.
These white “pearls” are obviously a single type of organism, because of its very regular and equal sized shapes. Some have described it as a virus, lymphocystis, while others have described it as calcium deposits. Both these would appear as very irregular and different sized lumps and spots, so these observations are incorrect.
Treatment
Fish lice are arthropods and have an exoskeleton. In arthropods, exoskeleton development is interfered with by organophosphate insecticides. Fish lice are best treated with trichlorofon (Blue Planet Para Cide) and diflubenzuron (Dimilin-X). Put the insecticide into the water column. It won’t affect the beneficial bacteria in the filter. The treatment should be once a week for two months. Note Fritz Aquatics Mardel Clout (Metronidazole and Trichlorfon) is no longer being sold.
In some countries one is limited to garden insecticides such as Malathion. These can be added at one drop per ten gallons. Copper supposedly can also kill argulus at the dose recommended for ich. Note I have not been able to kill fish lice with copper, so I don’t know about this recommendation.
If the larval argulus have created ulcers or red spots it is best to treat with a broad spectrum antibiotic in the food as secondary bacterial infections can kill fish quite rapidly.
Bacterial diseases need to be hit with a broad-spectrum antibiotic. These need to be obtained from the internet. They include Thomas Labs Fish Mox, Midland Vet Service Aqua-Mox, VetDepot Amoxicillin, SeaChem KanaPlex, Fishbiotic Ampicillin, Mardel Maracyn 2, Thomas Labs Fish Min and Thomas Labs Fish Doxy. They are ONLY effective when mixed with the food (contrary to manufacturers profit driven instructions).
It is easy to make medicated food. Heat 1/4 cup water (two ounces or 58 milliliters, not a lot) in the microwave. Then blend seven grams of plain animal derived gelatin (Knox gelatin, one packet) into the hot solution with vigorous stirring. Take two tablespoons of dry commercial fish food (pellets or flake) and mix it with just a little of the hot water/ gelatin mixture. Add hot water/gelatin until you get a paste like consistency. If it gets too watery just add more food.
Then add roughly 1/16 teaspoon (a 1% to 2% addition) of the medication to the mud. Mix and mash the whole mass thoroughly. Spread it out into a pancake about 1/8th inch (3 mm) thick on a plastic film or a plate. Then put in the refrigerator. If you plan on keeping it for more than two weeks put it in a small plastic bag and freeze.
Feeding should be at least for a week and longer if the fish doesn’t respond.
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Dave says
In reply to Eli … You’re doing everything correctly thus far, Just keep watching your discus, pipetting when called for.
Eli says
Hi Dave. I’m in a bit of a pickle right now and was hoping I could get your help. I’m trying to rescue my Discus but I’m sort of in a losing battle.
Please see my full write-up below and let me know what are my options:
https://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?141299-HELP-Unknown-Discus-Sickness-(Video-attached)
Dave says
In reply to Kevin …. After 24 hours it is too late to do anything. Just keep on trucking and hope for the best.
Kevin says
Hi Dave,
I don’t know if this is the right place to post this.
I need your expert advice. Last night I was putting some insecticide on my home on the side wall near my aquarium. I know I’m a fool for not covering my tank but since I am using a powder type and I hold the container below the tank level as I pour powder from the handheld bottle into a section between the side wall of the room and the aquarium.
Immediately I noticed there of “fumes” coming out from the side of the wall that seems to goes on top of the water column and falls into the water inside the tank. I was surprised of the fume because the powder is like baking soda in texture.
I am using pifpaf insecticide powder with 0.05% W/W of deltamethrin as per label and the rest 99.5% W/W of other ingredients not disclosed.
After 24 hours nothing seems extraordinary all fish are eating and alive but I have read online about 1 abstract study saying deltamethrin is highly toxic to fish under lab test at 0.001 mg/liter concentration of insecticide to tank water. They used an insecticide of 2.8% EC of deltamethrin in their tests. And after 96 hours their test fishs died depending on test concentration level.
Now I am in the middle of fish-in cycling. After 1 month of cycling I am still with 95% cloudiness (milky) intensity and you have replied in my comment in your cycling article not to change anything and just reduce feeding.
Hence I am hesitant to do water changes or run carbon.
Can you kindly advise what should I do? I am at a loss and I do not want to restart my cycling all over again.
Thanks in advance for your response.